This part will be similar to Part 1, but this time with a more involved repair. This paddle is owned by the club, and was not in great shape. It had the usual scratches and dings like Enzo, but it also had significant water damage on both the handle and the two sides of the face. With the extent of the damage involved, I decided that spot-treatment would be ineffective, and the whole paddle must be redone.
 |
Side View: The edges are scraped up badly.
Wood has started to rot. |
As can be seen, there is enough damage to the handle that visible splitting of the wood can be seen. Also, the edges of the face are starting to fray. In some of the problem areas it you can even see some red paint from the canoes. The rest of the gallery can be seen
here.
Step 1: Identify Problem Areas
2/3 of each side of the handle are worn. There moderate water damage on each side. Both sides are deep enough to observe wood splitting and a crack running down the paddle. The face has similar damage on each side, with fraying towards the bottom. The face itself is in relatively good condition, but could use a new coat of varnish. The handle has quite a bit of water damage and what I guess to be mold. Must be sanded down. A worrying area is the right side of the face, where a visible crack seems to be running down the side.
Each of those areas will have to be sanded down. Remove as much of the rotting wood as possible. Try to sand down into the cracks/splits to avoid sharp edges. Remove varnish from the entire paddle and revarnish.
Step 2: Sand
I sanded the problem areas first. Again used 220 grit sandpaper. I could have used a courser grit, especially considering how much material I ended up removing anyway, but the 220 ensured that I didn't take off too much material at once. This was done all hand sanding. On the damage to the handle I sanded off all the red paint, as well as evening out the cracks.
 |
Majority of the fraying has been sanded down.
Varnish will give it some strength. |
On the face, I sanded the outsides until the I got through the fraying wood. I tried to smooth over the crack as best I could. I got down to the point where the crack was small. I could have gone all the way down, but that might have changed the shape of the face or made it uneven from one side to the other. I also could have Epoxied the crack together, but at this point I wasn't ready to start working with Epoxy yet.
After the problem areas were sufficiently sanded, I went about sanding the rest of the paddle. I decided to just remove as much of the varnish as I could from the whole paddle, and redo it. This would let me experiment with how best to varnish ( more on that later) and give me experience on sanding.
Note: do this in a well ventilated area. I did it in my garage, with the door down and no airflow. Not a smart idea.
Step 3: Varnish
Because I decided to redo the entire paddle, I got the liquid version of the same spar varnish. I initially tried using a normal bristle brush, and a more expensive natural fiber brush. Both worked well... for the first coat. But I was not able to clean them thoroughly well enough, and the next time I tried to use them, they were much too hard. Finally a friend told me to try the opposite, the super cheap foam brushes. Use them for one session, then simply throw them away. This worked much much better.
Also I experimented with different techniques for brushing on the varnish. I've found that super thin coats work the best. It drastically reduces the likely hood of runs and pooling. I would start at the "shoulders" of the paddle ( as it hangs face down from some dental floss). I would "paint" from beyond the shoulder, then brush all the way down past the end of the paddle. Again this is to avoid runs and pooling for when you change direction.
If you decide to do many coats of thin varnish this is even less of a problem, as you simply keep brushing until the coat evens out. Be careful as the foam brush tends to simply suck in the varnish, I found myself almost squeezing the brush along the dry areas of the paddle to create a small pool then spreading it with the brush. Experiment to see how it works best for you.
I did one side completely, then the other. After doing the other side, check the reverse( original) side again for any runs that you may have caused. Usually I'll find a few big ones and brush those away. If you do it quick enough the other side will still be wet enough to allow you to brush. If the varnish has gone tacky, don't brush or you'll only end up leaving brush strokes in the varnish.
Step 4: Scuff/Finish Sand
As before, you have to create and abrasive surface between coats. You can use the same scrubbing pad. But I chose to use the 220-grit for the first few coats. The first few coats had quite a few imperfections and drips, so the extra abrasiveness helped me get rid of them. If all else fails, simply keep sanding until you sand away the imperfection and get back to the bare wood.
I must have added about 10 coats of varnish and sanded away at least half of them.
Step 5: Finish Coat
Keep repeating as in Part 1. A change I did do is that towards the end, I switched from liquid to spray varnish. This ensured that the last few coats would be easier to apply and get perfect. This was especially useful on the face, where imperfections were easy to see.
In hindsight I probably could have kept using the liquid varnish, but my skill was not up to it, and neither was my patience.
The results seem to work out fine. There's a visible difference between the handle and face ( the handle I kept using liquid varnish). I was originally planning on doing a final coat on both parts, but by then the paddle was needed and I figured it was "good enough". When the season ends I'll probably try again to perfect the technique.
Notes
The hardest part of this kind of repair was the face. You can see a lot of drips on the face, and its especially easy to see imperfections in the face of the shaft.
